Ratio is an important aspect to consider with the oval shape as it can have a significant impact on both the light dispersion within the stone and the appearance of the finger. When selecting an oval shape it is important to reconcile the relative benefits of the longer shape (larger ratio) and the more rounded shape (smaller ratio). The former will better elongate the finger, while a more rounded shape will better prevent the bow-tie effect.
The oval cut is a rounded shape typically comprised of 58 facets with a typical ratio between 1.33 and 1.66.
This shape optimises carat weight, meaning that the drawn out and symmetrical shape can make it appear larger than round stones of a similar weight. The oval cut is also an ideal way to elongate shorter fingers and it has recently become fashionable to use as the centre stone for engagement rings.
A “bow-tie effect” occurs when light passing through the diamond casts a shadow across the central facets of the stone. This shadow can be reduced by altering the depth of the pavilion, and adjusting the angles of the table and facets to better diffuse light in the central area. This effect also occurs in the Pear, Marquise and Heart shapes.
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The Marquise cut can maximize carat weight, making it appear larger than other stones of the same size and is often set with round or pear-shaped side-stones. As with other elongated shapes, the Marquise can make fingers appear longer and more slender.
Because of its large open facets, higher clarity grades (VS2 and above for IGI and VS1 and above for GIA, to ensure it is completely eye clean) are usually recommended for emerald cut diamonds.
Because of its extra facets, the Radiant cut can disperse more light through the stone making it one of the most brilliant of all square- and rectangular-shaped stones. It also hides inclusions more efficiently than other shapes. As it is a hybrid cut combining the features of both brilliant and step-cuts, the Radiant is the ideal compromise and the perfect solution for someone who wants to “have it all.”
The most important elements to consider with the heart shape are the quality of the curved cut and finish as these determine the sparkle of the gem.
Because of its extra facets, the Cushion cut can disperse more light through the stone which serves to hide inclusions more efficiently, making it one of the most brilliant of all square- and rectangular-shaped stones.
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