The Asscher cut is a unique shape with prismatic brilliance and a rectangular-faceted pavilion in the same style as the emerald cut.The standard number of main facets on an Asscher cut is usually 58 and the typical ratio for the more popular square-shaped Asscher cuts is 1.00 to 1.05.
The width of the cut corners may vary. With its deep pavilion, faceted culet, high crown and small table, the Asscher cut allows for tremendous lustre and creates a fascinating optical illusion known as the “Hall of Mirrors” effect.
The Asscher cut is referred to as a Square Emerald cut on a laboratory certificate, such as IGI or GIA. Although confusion reigns about what the differences are between an Asscher cut and a Square Emerald cut, they are in fact the same thing. However, there also exists a much rarer Royal Asscher cut, which is a patented version of the original Asscher cut with wide cut corners and 74 facets (instead of 58), and is classified as an octagonal step cut by the IGI.
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Because of its extra facets, the Princess cut can disperse more light through the stone, this serves to hide inclusions more efficiently, making it the most brilliant of all square- and rectangular-shaped stones. It is also a popular cut for wedding bands because the stones can be arranged side by side without any gaps, making it ideal for an eternity band too. Furthermore, due to its sharply squared corners, the Princess is an ideal cut for long fingers.
The optimal pear shape is one with a polished girdle and a rounded base, or “even shoulders”. However, much like the oval cut, a more attenuated pear shape may elongate the fingers, so it is important to reconcile these two qualities. Additionally, colour is often more visible towards the tip of the pear shape, so to ensure an even tone throughout the stone it is advisable to opt for colours H and above.
The round brilliant is the most versatile of all cuts both in terms of style and value. With more fire and brilliance than any other shape, this cut offers the ideal balance between cut, colour and clarity grades and budget.
Because of its extra facets, the Radiant cut can disperse more light through the stone making it one of the most brilliant of all square- and rectangular-shaped stones. It also hides inclusions more efficiently than other shapes. As it is a hybrid cut combining the features of both brilliant and step-cuts, the Radiant is the ideal compromise and the perfect solution for someone who wants to “have it all.”
Because of its large open facets, higher clarity grades (VS2 and above for IGI and VS1 and above for GIA, to ensure it is completely eye clean) are usually recommended for emerald cut diamonds.
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